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Filed under: January 2007

Soul Food

In the ragged hills of Andalucia, by whitewashed villages and ancient trails that wind from Africa to Spain, old Tomás was known as the ‘cabrero’, which roughly translates to ‘man who cares for goats’. On foot and horseback, he shepherded hundreds of goats around these mountains. He was guardian, midwife, nurse, milkmaid, cheese and sausage-maker. He was like a goat himself, nimble despite his advanced age, energetic and mischievous. He worked long, hard hours, providing a variety of staple foods to the inhabitants of this area, as generations of cabreros before him had done. What he managed was the antithesis of the modern ‘factory’ farm. It was agriculture as it has been practiced for thousands of years.

What Tomás and his family produced was real food. From the goats came milk, fresh and aged cheeses, chorizo and more. The locals washed this down with Continue…


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